Saturday 29 October 2016

Ride to live, live to ride.

This title is a song by Twisted Sister.
What a ride, what an experience.  I’ve learnt some useful lessons for any future trips and collected memories that’ll last a lifetime.
The views, the riding and the different places made up the trip but the people were the glue that brought it all together.  From the crazy ex-Spetsnaz guy in Israel to new friends in Germany, family in the UK and everyone in between.  Of course none of this would have been possible without the unwavering support of my wife who single headedly managed our family in Jordan while I was having a jolly around Europe.  Thank you darling.
One of the things that struck me during the ride was the kindness of strangers.  Before I left I read lots of opinions on the internet and heard plenty of horror stories about motorcycling through Europe.  Most people seemed to be intent on scare mongering based on news headlines out of date hear-say.  During this trip I never felt threatened and I didn’t witness anything that made me think that I was heading into trouble.  Maybe that’s because most sources exaggerate for the extra drama, maybe it was because I employed a healthy level of common sense or maybe I was just lucky.  I think it was down to the first two.  The second of which included 3 very basic rules; don’t ride at night, take my time and avoid major cities.  As a result, I was pleasantly surprised by nearly everyone I came across; offers of a bed for the night, a free drink (and often lunch) and a willingness of people to tell me about local sights, roads and eateries came thick and fast along with questions about the bike and the trip.
I think that, on the whole, people recognise that a motorcyclist has chosen a method of transport that makes them inherently vulnerable, it’s a method of transport that leaves you at the mercy of the people and environment you’re riding through.  There are some people who would take advantage of this for their own benefit but most react with kindness.  It was great to find my fear (mostly the fears of others really) completely unfounded.
I ticked of 14 countries during the ride and one of the most common questions I’ve been asked is which one’s where the best?  In third place is Greece.  I really didn’t know what I would find in Greece but for some reason my expectations where set to “low”.  It’s fair to say I was very wrong.  Greece is fabulous, once you get into the sticks the roads are empty and zigzag over beautiful mountains, not the same as the big European passes, but fantastic in their own way.  Just when you think you’ve seen all Greece has to offer it hits you with a new riding sensation, a vast plain, a sea view, off-road tracks that go on for so long that you think you’re never coming out.  It’s simply great adventure riding.  The cherry on the cake is the people who are lovely.  Romania is in second place.  I have to caveat that by saying that I don’t include the south of the country where the roads a bad and full of HGVs.  However, from the start of the Transfagarasan northwards it is an amazing country, full of extremes.  For example, the Transfagarasan its self is amazing, if you took the Isle of Man TT circuit, draped it over the hills of Glen Coe and asked an angry 2 year old to “draw” some extra road then took out the straight bits you would almost be there.  It’s simply ridiculous, but oh so much fun.  Once you’ve finished you can head off-road into some amazing countryside.  The towns and villages are the same.  One minute you’re in a modern western town then next you riding through a village where it’s clear that the horse and cart are the main form of transport.  For its contrasting awesomeness it has to be in the short list.  In first place:  Bavaria.  Extraordinary in its beauty, full of genuinely lovely people who share a great sense of humour and a passion for their small patch of Germany.  This is made evident by how well kept everything is, from the flowering window boxes perched on most window sills to the healthy livestock in the perfect fields and stacked winter stocks of logs.  If I had to leave the UK tomorrow you’d find me here.
Another frequently asked question is; “So you did it alone, weren’t you really board?”  The short answer is no.  I’m perfectly happy in good company…  The longer answer is that by being alone you’re more approachable and I make more effort to talk to other people.  I’m not saying that, on the odd occasion, I wouldn’t have said no to having a friend to share the evening with but generally I was very content.  On the longer stretches I would have liked some company but I’m riding so I can’t talk anyway instead I pass the time singing in my helmet.  I’ve never recorded any of it so you’re lucky that I can't let you hear it, I say that because 1. I can’t sing. 2. I can’t remember the words to any song in full and 3. I tend to mix hymns, pop and children’s songs.  The children’s songs are a new thing for which I blame my 2 year old.  A typical song might go something like this:

I would walk 500 miles,
and I would walk 500 more,
just to be the man who,
brought you your bow of burning gold,
bring me my arrows of desire,
because I’m a flippy flappy scarecrow,
with a flippy flappy hat,
I can shake my hands like this and I shake my feet like that…….

That could be on repeat for 10s of miles before I start talking, out loud, about the benefits of a flippy floppy hat in the burning hot sun of the desert.  Do you still want to be a fly inside my lid?  Didn’t think so.
Before I sign off this blog I have two final points I would like to make for the dedicated few who have lasted this long.  Firstly, blogging is fun but it’s also hard work.  Some evenings I really didn’t want to do it but I am very happy I did as I now have a great record of my ride which I’m going to turn into a coffee table book to bore people with.  If you go on a trip then give it a try.  Finally:


This trip was easy to organise and easy to do without breaking the bank.  If you’re thinking “I would love to do something like that but….” Then pack your bike with whatever you want and ride to Dover £25 gets you into France, £10 gets you into a camp site and a fiver in Lidl buys you a days food.  Can’t be assed to plan?  Then don’t, just get on your bike and ride.

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